Day 8 - Bordeaux > Royan (143 km)

For the first time since the start of our journey, we are wearing mackintoshes. Greyness and light rain dampen our morning spirits, but the rays soon break through. We set course for Lacanau-Océan, which we reached via a welcoming track laid out on the right-of-way of a former railway line used by foresters. The plane trees have given way to maritime pines. Last summer's fire has left its mark.

A seasoned cyclist joins our group to protect himself from the wind. You can guess the habits of this road cyclist. This is his first outing after a long convalescence and we can't think of a better way to get back into the swing of things.

Finally, the ocean comes into view. The rumour of holidays and the smell of waffles become clearer. We had lunch by the water before heading north along the coast on the famous Vélodyssée. From Hendaye to Roscoff, this cycle route along the Atlantic is the French part of EuroVelo 1 (Atlantic Coast Route) linking Portugal to northern Norway.

Between the Atlantic and the lakes of the Médoc, today's stage crosses a network of local cycle paths and forest roads criss-crossing the pine forest. The dunes make for a gentle ride. Raph sets the pace on the Côte d'Argent. We enjoy the ride so much that the kilometres tick by effortlessly, to the tune of Elton John.

With the Pointe de Grave in our sights, we reach the Gironde estuary at the end of the day. A ferry is docked. A twenty-minute crossing was all it took to see the Belle Epoque villas of Royan coming into view. Once again, we were welcomed into the homes of friends' parents. Once again, we were amazed by the hospitality and warmth of those who shared our adventure for an evening. After 143 kilometres of cycling, our good manners flagellate at the sight of the beautiful duck breasts touching the table. A Billy Joel vinyl is playing in the living room, prompting the group of budding musicians and singers to finish the evening around the piano.

To great hosts, the grateful homeland of cyclists.

Paulette is a network of bike hire agencies. You can find us on the Canal de Nantes à Brest, the Loire à vélo, the Vélodyssée, the Canal latéral à la Garonne, the Méditerranée à vélo and the Canal du Midi in Brest, Tours, Nantes, Lyon, Arles, Mâcon, Chalon sur Saône, Montélimar, Paris, La Rochelle, Royan, Bordeaux, Sète, Béziers, Narbonne, Biarritz and Toulouse.

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